How does it feel to be on top of the world? The answer to this question must be different for different people but for me, it was visiting one of the most beautiful and pristine lakes in India. Gurudongmar lake is the second-highest lake in India situated at an altitude of 17,800 ft and is treated as the sacred lake for Sikhs as well as Buddhists.
Table of Contents
History
The word 'Guru' represents Guru Nanak Dev, 'Dong' means the stick or the 'lathi', and 'Mar' means to tap. Thus the name Gurudongmar. The lake got its name from a historical anecdote where Guru Nanak Dev visited this lake which was completely frozen at that time. The locals informed their difficulties to him in getting water and thus hearing their plight, he banged his Stick on the lake to break the ice chunks. To date, the lake never gets frozen completely even in the chilling temperatures of the Himalayas. The Buddhists have a different version of this anecdote which I could not recollect at this point but the lake is very sacred for the followers of both religions.
How to reach.
To reach this beautiful natural lake, one needs to be physically as well as mentally fit. A lot of pre-planning is required before the commencement of your trip. The region belongs to North Sikkim and has the most beautiful and picturesque landscape. To reach Gurudongmar lake you have to visit Lachen from Gangtok and treat that as a base camp before you start proceeding towards the lake. Lachen is approximately an 8 hrs drive from Gangtok and the route is immensely beautiful and scary at the same time. There are numerous waterfalls along the route which adds charm to this long journey. Also, you can take multiple halts in between soaking yourself in the tranquility of nature. The Lachen river will go side by side while you travel uphill. I remember I spent some quality time along the bank of the river and the landscape was none less than a live painting. The picture of the place is still in my memory and it is something that I can never forget in my lifetime.
Staying at Lachen
Lachen is situated at an altitude of 9,000 ft and has an extremely cold climate throughout the year. We reached approximately 6 PM and it had started getting pretty cold as the mercury dips to -4 degrees during the night.
Do not over-expect this place as it's a small village and is not commercialized yet (which is a good thing). There are very limited staying options present and all of them are mostly homestays. The people of Sikkim are very cordial and they take care of their guests very well. We had pre-booked a homestay from the make my trip website and the rooms were good enough to spend the night. The food is provided by the family itself however some fast food options are also available like Maggi which can be made by them upon request and by releasing some extra pennies from your pocket.
The area is prone to frequent rains and thus the air has a lot of moisture in it. The rain further helps in dipping the temperatures. Thus the linens and the blankets remain moist most of the time. This is the only option you have so be mentally prepared to spare all your luxurious dreams before visiting this place. What is more rewarding is the soothing sound of the Lachen river running down the hills while everything else remains silent.
The First Leg of the Journey: Reaching 15000 ft.
Your journey towards the majestic lake must begin as early as 4 AM while it remains dark outside. This is necessary as you need to travel from 9000 ft to 17800 ft in 6 hrs including breakfast halts and permit-related formalities.
Please make a note that access to Gurudongmar lake is only allowed till noon as beyond those hours the climate becomes extremely dangerous to tolerate. You need a special permit to visit the lake and these formalities are handled by the driver of the cab which you hire. The roads are extremely bumpy and in a few places, you will get a complete off-road experience.
We took two halts in between one being the breakfast halt situated 2000ft above the village. It's a small shack that serves hot thukpas and Maggi. Also, warm liquids such as warm water, tea, or coffee are available if you wish only to have a liquid diet during your journey. However, it's important to eat little pieces of the meal and keep the body hydrated while traveling. This helps in tackling altitude sickness and keeping the body adjusted to the changing temperatures.
Further, on your way uphill, you will surpass the beautiful Chungthang Valley to a halt at 15000 ft which is an Indian Army Camp where the permit formalities are sorted. The Army runs a charity canteen where delicious momos and coffee are served free of cost to all the tourists. You can donate some money as a token of gratitude before leaving the counter however it's not mandatory. The permit formalities take approximately half n hr to one hr depending upon the influx of tourists on that day.
The Final Leg of the Journey: Army Camp to Gurudongmar Lake (17800 ft)
As you start progressing toward the final route, the road becomes super smooth and you will realize that the Tibetan Plateau has begun. Some places were like deserts and at the same time, huge mountains are standing tall and covered in snow. This final leg of the journey is the most beautiful and satisfying experience you can get. All that pain of traveling and exertion vanishes when you witness the beauty of the Himalayas.
By 10 AM, I reached the lake. The weather was chilly and sunny at the same time with the temperature close to -14 degree celsius. The sun was shining bright and there it is - The half frozen crystal blue lake. If peace can be personified then Gurudongmar Lake is possibly the best name I could say. I was awestruck by this beauty as I have never seen such a beautiful place till that time in my life. Visiting this place was long due to my bucket list and to date, it holds the fondest memories of my travel plans.
To go near the lake, you must go down a few steps below the reaching point. Please note that at such an altitude the oxygen level remains extremely low and it further reduces when you go down near the lake. You can experience this transition yourself. You can choose to sit beside the lake or do a circling around it, however circling requires more energy which means more oxygen. Therefore, physical fitness is a must here. The weather here changes rapidly every hour. Many tourists cannot stay back for long due to low oxygen levels. On average, tourists can bear this atmosphere for a maximum of 15 minutes. I managed to stay for close to 45 minutes.
Post noon, the tourists are not permitted to either progress from the Army camp or to stay at Gurudongmar lake. The weather becomes hostile by then and for security purposes, restrictions are imposed.
We started our return journey with a heavy heart and a wish to revisit this place sometime. It takes approximately 4 hours While a return trip to Lachen. On reaching Lachen, you can have lunch at the homestay itself and then may proceed to your next destination (if planned).
Things to keep in mind before visiting Gurudongmar Lake
1. Please prefer an SUV while opting for a rented vehicle. The roads are extremely rough and you can get severe backache if not traveling in a vehicle with proper shock absorbers. The cabs are available on a shared basis as well as a reserved basis.
2. Lachen is a plastic-free zone and carrying any kind of plastic bottles, chips packets, etc is prohibited. There is a checkpoint before entering Lachen where vehicles are thoroughly checked. The water bottles are made available from the administration on a rental basis with a minimum security deposit. While exiting Lachen you can give back the bottles and get your security deposit refunded.
3. Make sure to carry enough warm clothes. It's important to dress in layers of clothes due to the extreme cold weather and temperatures. Also, woolen caps, mufflers, and gloves are highly recommended.
4. To combat sudden breathlessness at such a high altitude, keeping oxygen can with yourself is the best option. You can purchase the oxygen can from any medical shop in Gangtok. Though not many shops have them a little exploring the market area on MG road of Gangtok will be of help.
5. Travelling with infants or elderly people is not recommended as there is limited medical help available in that region. Also, get your vitals such as blood pressure levels pre-checked before proceeding to Lachen.
6. Always trust and listen to your driver as they are the locals and know the place and weather much better than you. Also, en route to Lachen, you can request them to halt at a few offbeat places to get a captivating view of nature.
7. Also, please bear in mind that luck plays a very important factor while visiting Gurudongmar Lake. The weather has to be supportive throughout the journey else you may have to return mid-way or from the army camp itself. So be mentally prepared for such scenarios and if possible keep an extra day as a reserve in your tour itinerary.
On a conclusive note, North Sikkim is the paradise of the state and Lachen is one of the twin villages (the other being Lachung) which is primarily used as a base camp for visiting Gurudongmar Lake. I'll be back with another dedicated blog on visiting Lachung and its nearby places. I hope this blog helps you to plan your journey in a better manner.
Thanks for reading and Happy Traveling!
Great Share 👍🏻