Hello readers ! Here I am back with an another travelogue from the beautiful backwaters of Kerala. Where there are backwaters, there are houseboats too. The word houseboat resonates in my mind to be a very dreamy kind of an affair and initially I too was fascinated with the idea of an overnight stay in a houseboat. However, thanks to those few bloggers who had shared their experience of staying in a houseboat, that I changed my mind.
Alappuzha is a city situated 55kms away from Kochi and often described as the "Venetian Capital of Kerala". The city attracts huge number of domestic and international tourists every year due to the presence of so many water bodies like canals, backwaters, beaches and lagoons.
Reaching Alaphuzza:
I took a late night flight from Mumbai to Kochi (nearest Airport) as I have planned my visit during the Holi Festival in the month of March. Alaphuzza is situated 50-60 Km away from Kochi and is approximately a one hour ride from Kochi International Airport.
A display of Mahabharata (Gambling Scene) at Kochi International Airport
Staying Options:
The most popular staying option available in Alappuzha is Houseboat. As I said the idea seems to be fascinating but I decided something different from the conventional options. I did not choose a houseboat for few reasons as they seem to be over expensive keeping in mind the huge demand. Also, the food options are limited and you have to stick to the options being offered on the house boat which are pricey too.
I decided to stay at Lovedale Lakeside Homestay situated on the bank of the mighty Vembenad Lake. I pre booked the cab from the homestay itself and the driver was very cordial and responsible. I reached the property at approximately 2.30 AM in night and the owners have kept my room ready in advance. The check in formalities were completed in the next morning.
It's a beautiful homestay situated 15km away from Alaphuzza Town and is being managed by a couple with perfect Homely ambience. They have multiple staying options ranging from rooms to separate private cottages. I chose one of the cottages situated in the campus. The room was cozy with a big washroom and loaded with all basic amenities.
Lovedale Homestay, Alapphuza
The campus has a calming ambience as it's situated beside the lake and the morning was mesmerizing when the sun rays hit the lake turning into a pink paradise. Huge Chinese fish nets can be seen at a distance and the fishermen wake up as early as possible to collect black snails as well as the famous Karimeen which is the state fish of Kerala. A very attractive gazebo is also present in the property where you can sit and dine with the luxury of viewing the backwaters.
The lakeside Gazebo, Lovedale Homestay, Alapphuza
A Boat Ride to the Backwaters
As I mentioned earlier that people prefer to stay in houseboats and explore the backwaters, however, there are a few limitations which the houseboats have. The beauty of backwaters lies in the narrow canals of the waterbody which are inaccessible by the giant houseboats. Thus, I chose to hire a shikara which is a much smaller boat with a canopy. The shikara can be hired on hourly basis and depending on the boat size the rates per hour can range between INR 300 to 600. If you have good negotiating skills then you can bargain for cheaper rates based on the number of hours. For me a 3-4 hour boat ride was enough to explore the lake and the backwaters. You can specify the boatman about your preferences to visit the narrow canals and they will take you on a picturesque ride.
Houseboats in the Backwaters
The vembenad Lake is huge and the vast waterbody is also scary sometimes. You will get enough time to soak yourself in the natural beauty. The homestay has a private little dock for onboarding the boat and the homestay owners have good contact with the boatmen. My boat was also arranged by them only. As I saw the private dock slowly vanishing in the horizon, I saw the huge Chinese fish nets and the array of coconut trees which are standing tall beside the other bank of the lake.
Chinese Fish Nets in the Backwaters
The ride was going smooth and after half n hour I started crossing beside the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. You will see ample number of beautiful birds sitting on the little grass patches floating on the lake and some of them resting on small islands. There are huge number of Indian Darters, Egret, Heron and European Coot to name a few.
The Great Indian Darter with the backdrop of Fishermen in Vembenad Lake.
As I was immersed completely in this paradise, I took a few shots using my DSLR and I somehow regretted not having a telephoto lens to capture much closer shots of the birds. Yet, I managed to capture some shots which are very close to my heart. The boat slowly progressed towards the narrow canals and the feeling of being in Venice became more prominent. There were small villages with beautiful huts situated on either sides of the canal makes it more like a painting. There were a raft of ducks paddling through the canal and their quaker sounds were making me travel to an altogether different world.
A pair of European Coot near Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary
After a span of almost 3 hours, the boat rewind it's journey towards the homestay and slowly I once again I saw the dock of the premises being approached towards me. It was wonderful to observe how the boatman has the perfect sense of timing to cover the entire backwaters within the specified time limit. That's called the experience after all.
Left to Right: Parked Houseboats in the Lake, A raft of Ducklings and The Village Home along the banks of the canal.
Anyways, I came back to the homestay with laods of memorable moments and decided to have lunch first. The owner of the property was informed in advance about the time of my arrival and delicious food was waiting for me on the platter which consisted of Rice, Thoran (Oan fried cabbage with coconut tempered with black mustard seeds and curry leaves) and the famous Karimeen Fish. I would like to mention here that Karimeen is a delicacy and is a costly dish available at a starting price of INR 700-800 per fish, however, being in the homestay I got it in INR 300/- only which was a good deal for me. The fishermen captures this fish with bare hands in the early morning hours by diving into the lake which is so astonishing to hear. The food at the homestay is being prepared by the owner duo themselves and they are a great cook. The homestay hosts a number of foreign tourists also which I believe happens due to their strong reputation of hospitality and food services.
Coconut Trees lined up along the bank of the Vembenad Lake
I am ending the first part of my blog here but there is a lot more to say about the Alapphuza Town which I will cover in the next part. Till then keep reading and do share your experience in the comments if you have also visited the Venice of the East in Kerala.
Thanks for your time.
Very interesting blog👌
Keep going